North Bass Trail Trip Report
 (April 29 - May 5, 2006) by Larry Walker


GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK


"One's soul is in the wide spaces, the long vistas, the desert flowers, the soaring buzzards and blue sky, the wind [and smell] after rain. And in the rocks, bright with color, hot with sunshine, crag and cliff and desert mountainside. - Roadside Geology of Arizona - Halka Chronic.

"But Jesus answered, 'I tell you, if these become silent, the stones will cry out!'" - Bible - New Testament, Luke 19:40.

"It is an honor to be a visitor at the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, as it is an honor and a privilege to be alive, however briefly, on this rare, sweet, delicate, one and one only planet we call Earth." - Edward Abbey - Forty Years as a Canyoneer.

[Pictures link at bottom of report...]

Attendees: Bob Buhrman, Gary Dunn, Larry Lee, Larry Walker

General Description: The objectives of this trip were (1) to reset the mind and body - which should be the purpose of all holidays - and (2) to hike an area of Grand Canyon that has had an allure to us for several years now, since seeing it from the Copper Canyon area on the south side of the Colorado.

To steal segments from Ron Adkison's book: "The North Bass Trail, actually more a route than a trail, is one of the most difficult and demanding trails in the Grand Canyon...

"This trail, an old Indian route once known as the Shinumo Trail (shinumo is a Paiute word referring to the ancient cliff-dwelling inhabitants of the Canyon) was later improved by a prospector known only as White, who may have lived for a time near Muav Saddle spring. William Wallace Bass, who constructed the South Bass Trail in the 1880s, rebuilt the so-called White Trail to the North Rim by 1900. Using a cable crossing at the Colorado River, Bass guided tourists from the South Rim to the North Rim via his trail, some on sightseeing trips, others on hunting trips.

"Only seasoned hikers with a yearning for adventure should attempt this route, allowing at least four to five days to complete the trip. The way involves considerable, often inventive, route-finding, boulder-hopping, scrambling, bushwhacking, and, at times, a good deal of exposure to plunging cliffs... The remainder of the trail, though it involves much boulder-hopping and detours around obstacles, is much easier - for experienced hikers - than the rim-to-Redwall segment..."

Someone or group has, over the past 5 or 6 years, greatly improved the first 1/3 of this trail. Much of the overgrown brush has been cleared back, and it seems the trail widened for use with pack animals. This first 1/3 is not nearly as horrible as many previous reports describe. It's still darn steep though...

Key Points:
  • Swamp Point trailhead - trail begins.
  • Trail junction at Muav Saddle at mile 1.0.
  • Top of Redwall descent at roughly 4.5 miles.
  • Tonto Plateau overland route starts at about 7.5 miles.
  • Shinumo Creek at 10.3 miles.
  • Shinumo (Bass) Camp located at mile 12.
  • Colorado River located 13.5 miles from trailhead.

    GPS Waypoints: (General Map - other maps located on pre-trip webpage)

    Waypoint  Latitude    Longitude   Elev.  Comment
    ---------- Directions to Trailhead ---------
    1001      36°24.066  -112°07.764  8711   67 Turn Off
    1002      36°24.664  -112°08.984  9163   Turn Left Here
    1003      36°23.769  -112°09.033  9201   Radio Tower
    1004      36°22.894  -112°08.567  9163   Turn Right Here
    1005      36°22.775  -112°09.321  9153   Bear Left Here
    1006      36°22.696  -112°09.605  9124   Navigation Aid
    1007      36°22.307  -112°10.882  8847   Bear Right Here
    1008      36°22.376  -112°11.296  8836   Navigation Aid
    1009      36°22.099  -112°13.820  8442   Navigation Aid
    1010      36°22.228  -112°14.335  8374   Sharp Left Here
    1011      36°22.001  -112°14.133  8313   Left Here
    1012      36°21.900  -112°13.930  8317   Navigation Aid
    1013      36°21.610  -112°13.989  8412   Navigation Aid
    1014      36°21.130  -112°13.941  8316   Park Boundary
    1015      36°20.968  -112°13.954  8362   Bear Right. Come Out Place
    1016      36°20.744  -112°14.092  8374   Navigation Aid
    1017      36°20.473  -112°14.218  8366   Navigation Aid
    1018      36°20.154  -112°17.449  7967   Navigation Aid
    1019      36°20.000  -112°18.904  7749   Swamp Lake
    1020      36°20.136  -112°20.991  7532   Swamp Point Trailhead
    ---------- Trail Markings ---------
    1021      36°20.022  -112°21.296  6741   Teddy's Cabin
    1022      36°18.735  -112°21.066  5168   Natural Bridge
    1023      36°16.631  -112°19.808  3435   Trail Split
    1024      36°16.389  -112°19.546  3276   Approx Ribokas Trail Split
    1025      36°15.357  -112°19.693  2755   Meeting Spot
    1026      36°15.361  -112°19.572  2759   Up Creek To Abyss
    1027      36°15.074  -112°20.394  2579   Bass Camp
    1028      36°14.948  -112°20.558  2473   Trail Split For Rapids
    1029      36°14.293  -112°20.566  2320   River Trail Junction
    1030      36°14.229  -112°20.944  2195   Shinumu Meets River
    1031      36°13.871  -112°20.341  2202   Bass Rapids
    1032      36°16.368  -112°17.481  3663   Modred Merlin Junction
    1033      36°16.683  -112°16.467  4082   Cave?
    1034      36°17.407  -112°15.907  4537   Abyss Fork
    1035      36°17.342  -112°15.490  4723   Cave?
    1036      36°18.415  -112°16.874  6749   Camp?
    1037      36°19.339  -112°13.757  8078   Junction Road
    ---------- Actual Markings on Trip ----------
    0001      35°22.336  -111°34.517  7241   Camp Location In Cinders
    0002      36°21.110  -112°13.956  8439   Park Boundary Marked
    0003      36°20.130  -112°20.993  7529   Trailhead Marked
    0004      36°18.445  -112°21.067  5247   First Night Camp Marked
    0005      36°17.573  -112°20.444  3985   Trail Point Near Falls
    0006      36°17.177  -112°20.140  3700   Lunch
    0007      36°15.432  -112°19.873  3236   Camp At Shinumo
    0008      36°15.050  -112°20.376  2488   Bass Camp Marked
    0009      36°14.338  -112°20.969  2358   Lunch Stop
    0011      36°14.292  -112°20.815  2396   Trail Down Marked
    0012      36°14.267  -112°20.707  2268   Cove On Colorado For Break
    0013      36°14.615  -112°20.681  2942   Top Of Trail On Plateau
    0014      36°14.589  -112°20.757  2979   Scenic Overlook
    0015      36°15.363  -112°19.587  2762   White Shinumo Creeks Confluence
    0016      36°15.276  -112°19.293  2806   Various
    0017      36°15.286  -112°19.288  2845   Various
    0018      36°15.113  -112°19.017  2909   Mine
    0019      36°15.513  -112°19.413  3043   End Of Tour Up White
    0020      36°17.432  -112°20.425  3878   Various
    0021      36°17.663  -112°20.567  4012   Various
    0022      36°19.295  -112°21.241  5431   Various

    (Note: Author not responsible for waypoint accuracy or lost persons.)

    Trip Details:

    Friday, 4-28-06: Left Phoenix around 20:00. Arrived in Flagstaff around 22:30. Hit Sunset Crater at milepost 430 on RTE 89, FR# 9122M, 29 miles from Coco's in Flagstaff. Stopped for a night in the cinders north of Sunset Crater [wp 0001]. Got there around 24:00. Beautiful night! Lots of stars and Milky Way to be seen. Little wind. Nice and cool.

    Saturday, 4-29-06: Rolled out of Sunset cinders about 07:00. Stopped at Cameron for breakfast. Stopped at Navajo Bridge at Bitter Springs / Marble Canyon [pic]. Stopped for fuel near the Lee's (no relation to Larry L.) Ferry Anglers (Guides & Fly Shop). Drove up past the "Scary Larry" sign and on through Jacob Lake up to the closed North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park [pic]. Some simple map checks and a short detour in the National Forest (FR 461 west to FR 282 south to FR 212 east) brought us back to Hwy 67 inside the park where we proceeded to the Swamp Point Trailhead. One of the more challenging parts of this trip was finding and getting to the trailhead and loop back points. Several fallen trees had to be moved out of the roads: bring your chain saw! [pic]. We dropped off Larry Lee's truck down the road [wp 1015] that leads to Lancelot point - toward Kanabownits Spring. Looks like the sign to Kanabownits Spring has been removed. We arrived at Swamp Point around 15:00 and then prepped and proceeded down the North Bass trail. We hiked to roughly the top of the Redwall descent, arriving around 19:30, enjoying a look at Muav (Teddy's) cabin along the way [pic]. Plenty of water in the springs and along some White tributaries. Legs adapting for first day. For me, bean burros for supper with mandarin orange fruit cup - perfecto! Nice stars. Saw the scheduled Iridium flare completely by coincidence (29 Apr, 20:54:20, Mag. -6, Alt. 11°, Azm. 352° (N), Satellite Iridium 22). 21:00ish, lots of z's...

    Sunday, 4-30-06: I think this is the day that decided the rest of our trip itinerary. The impact of this day on our minds and bodies would determine how ambitious the rest of the week would be. We arose around 06:00 and broke camp around 08:00. One thing we like to do is take our time and enjoy ourselves; we are on vacation after all. We descended the Redwall in fine fashion and then proceeded to boulder hop and navigate our way down the White Creek. Plenty of water was flowing. Around lunch, we encountered some slight rain with plenty of thunder heard in the distance. Once we reached the Tonto Platform / White Creek split [wp 1023], general disdain for boulders and discussions of flash floods caused us to choose the Tonto Platform trail - the "old trail". Many descriptions say this trail is difficult to follow, but it was basically a super highway. Cloud cover and many breaks made this an amiable route to Shinumo. We arrive at Shinumo around 17:30. What an impressive "creek" is the Shinumo! By any other standards in Arizona, this is a "river". Everyone was thinking, "carrying packs across this is going to be interesting." Baths, supper, and ibuprofen for all. Funny, Shinumo seemed so cold and fast; a day later and we're playing in it like it was our backyard pool. Up with the tents cause it looks like rain and the insects are prevalent in this riparian environment. Turkey and stuffing for me - perfect in taste and amount. Crab cakes for Gary - very good! Log sawing for Larry L. All is good.

    Monday, 5-01-06: Happy May Day! I guess. You know, the month of May is a great month, but it's always been hurried along out of the way for various reasons, mainly school ending. Lots of dayhiking for today. Nice jaunt down to the Colorado. No sense trying to camp down there due to popularity of spot with river rafters. We decide Shinumo-White confluence area is just great. We tried to reach the Colorado via Shinumo. Bass' camp was interesting to check out. Lots of historical trash as it were. Still amazing to us that part of his activities was escorting "tourists" from the South to the North rim on site-seeing trips! We bumped into a river party coming up to see Bass' camp et al. They told us that we couldn't get to the river via Shinumo way because of a waterfall that required significant skill to circumnavigate. What do they know, we have a map! Well, they were right... After Bass' camp (a few hundred yards), the trail splits. A well-worn path heads south uphill to the platform area and beautiful views of the Colorado. We took this route on the way back. We decided to give the rest of Shinumo a look and see about those falls. Well, dead end. Just over the 15-20 ft. waterfalls and around the corner 100 ft. was the Colorado. Much discussion ensued: mostly grumbling at me for not listening to the rafters. Now we had to back bush-track all the way back to the appropriate trail. However, only a short distance back up Shinumo, after much head scratching, map reading, contour looking, I found the old trail that bypasses the falls. Bam, within 20 minutes or so we were down at the beach of the Colorado - and we saw a cool water fall on the way [pic]. Swim, fish, eat, relax, harass river folks (they were, and always seem to be, very nice and friendly - usually amazed to see us there), just enjoy a lazy afternoon at the Colorado at Bass Rapids. We hiked out on the river rafter main trail - what a grunt up to the saddle ridge. Oh, but what a beautiful overlook! Nice vistas. This route was much easier than boulder hopping. This area of the North Bass is 99% rock, 0.9% water, 0.1% vegetation - lots of schist and dark, deep, old, hot, rocks. Interesting, we saw quite a bit of quartz and pyrite and mica (maybe) - lots of metamorphic activity sometime. We got back to camp around 16:30. Red beans and rice - a favorite - for my supper. Kahlua, ibuprofens and sleep...

    After today and much discussion, we decided not to attempt the loop trail going out at Lancelot's Point. When we do these trips we are careful and very respectful of the difficult situations we could be in with just a twisted ankle. After thinking about how much the trail seems to have changed, the overall physical condition of our group, and the challenge that lay ahead, the difficulty should we be unsuccessful, we all decided that the wise route would be our original plan and hike out the way we came in. Plan to day hike up the Shinumo tomorrow and then 2-day hike our way out and then spend a final night on the North rim in the National Forest. Wussies one and all, but Barry (we bumped into him and his female friend on the trail) reminded me that it is wise to be flexible in your itinerary.

    Tuesday, 5-02-06: Up the Shinumo as far as we could and/or wanted today. Also ventured up White for a ways to see what we had missed bypassing this portion of the trail. Also trekked up Flint Creek for a ways. Shinumo dead ends into a waterfall that is all but impassable. I found a fairly easy route around, but this was a lazy and relaxing day, so no one else was interested in going further. It was quite a view around the falls. After going as far as desired up Shinumo, we headed up Flint for a ways. It was a slight trickling stream sure to vanish come summer. Found a nice shade tree and had lunch and a nap. Relaxing day. Lots of creek crossings. Lots of waterfalls. We played in a few drop-offs and slides in the creek [pic1, pic2], headed up White Creek for a ways, and then watched Buhrman run back to camp because he forgot his TP (guess he was ashamed to ask). We got back around 16:30. Lots of photos and talk. Supper for me was Beef stew and rice - good combo and portion. Gary had brought along some Crown Royal (for medicinal purposes), and I guess he didn't want to carry it out, so he was offering. Larry L. added it to his apple dumpling/strudel mix for a glazing that was really quite good. So Crown Royal, Kahlua, ibuprofens... looks like all will sleep well tonight. For a bunch of guys that don't drink much, we sure seemed to have a lot of booze. I think Larry L. even had a stash... Kahlua is nice in coffee... Mice were somewhat bothersome to Larry L. and Bob - watch and bag your food/smelly stuff as always.

    Wednesday, 5-03-06: Begin to head out today: back up Muav Canyon like we came - up and out. We decided to go back over the Tonto Platform instead of up White Creek. We take it pretty easy, enjoying the cool of the day for walking and then lounging under a rock, lizard style, during the heat [pic1, pic2]. It wasn't very hot, but it sure felt good in the shade. We found several nice places to lounge and possibly camp for the night, but with much persuasion, I managed to convince the crew that it would be much nicer to have the Redwall ascent behind us tonight and an easier climb awaiting in the morning. Buhrman protested. I'm beginning to think he's a "protestant" after all. Up the Redwall we went. We arrived and stayed at the same site as our first evening around 17:30. We ascended the Redwall beginning around 15:30 or so. It was perfect; we had shade almost the entire climb. And all were glad we did it today. Chicken and rice for my supper - perfect as usual. Last night in the Canyon proper - always sad and happy.

    Thursday, 5-04-06: Hike out. Pack feeling real light now - around 40# I bet. Total pack weight in the beginning was around 55# (including food and water). I think with some cleverness, we could easily get everyone's packs to less than 50# or better each. Kahlua, video cameras, multiple stoves, pumps, etc. get real heavy... From the top of the Redwall to the trail head is basically a very steep up. Just keep plodding. Get to see more scenery on the way out because I'm not so worried about breaking a leg falling down. Stopped at Teddy's (Muav) cabin for lunch. Buhrman and Larry L. couldn't wait, they took off for the rim. We left camp around 08:00 and got out at 13:00. Quite a leisurely pace. Cleaned up and then headed over to get the shuttle truck. Drank a few hard lemonades and beers (what a bunch of boozers - driving through the National Forest UI) and headed for Jacob Lake Lodge for some grub. Seems a favorite dish once in from backpacking is a good ole American hamburger. Gary said it's the best meal he'd ever had! I agree... again. Headed back to the Forest to find a good rim campsite - East View will work. Nice night. Somewhat cool. Threat of rain. Actually got a few snow flurries to go with the patches still left in the shade. Lots of talk. We camped right next to a portion of the Arizona Trail (Kaibab route). I managed to hike a bit of it - do when I can. Nice place. More deer. Good z's...

    Friday, 5-05-06: Happy Cinco de Mayo! We protest because of the protest on 1 May: no Mexican food today. Up and out to Jacob Lake for breakfast. Saw the turkey hunters out. Stopped at Lee's Ferry Anglers for auto fuel. What a tremendous fly fishing supply store! If you forgot it, they have it. Stopped at Marble Canyon / Lee's Ferry Navaho Exxon for showers [pic]. Stop at Cameron for people fuel and gift buying as always. Buhrman's wife can tell he's alright when the Visa online shows his purchases! Our Ultimate Consumer. On to Phoenix, our hot oasis of syphilization. After some stops and some minor traffic, we arrived around 17:30.

    Overall: What a great get-away! Definitely forgot about the day-to-day grind of everyday life. Some general commentary is in order. The operative word for the week was "hmmmm". Seemed like everytime a situation or something unexpected would occur, there was a collective "hmmmm".

    Yes, we changed our itinerary. As Bob said, "we're always changing Larry's plans." Good deal! I personally am glad we all like to be together and that we all respect each other. We all like adventure and seeing new and uncommon things, but we're on vacation for crying out loud. Stress we came to avoid. Wise people can change their direction when required or desired.

    I saw a great contrast between Grand Canyon and Coyote Gulch of last year. Maybe I got spoiled, but the flowers and vegetation of last year's trip seemed to add a lot to the scenery. The Shinumo and surroundings are in some serious metamorphic rock beds. I almost hate to say this, but, aside from the crystals, Schist rock is hot and fairly dull - and I love rocks! Getting up on the plateaus was practically a treat for me. Once we got up canyon a ways, things prettied right up. Maybe it was still too early yet for much fauna. There was definitely much more rain last year that this. Although, once away from the water's edge - zilch on the vegetation.

    We sorely missed Rex and Marty along on this trip. Both had personal issues arise at the last moment that prevented their attendance this year. Each always adds their special dynamic to the group; although, with any more humor in the group, we may have been "disturbing the peace."

    I've got to say this (I hate to but...), Bob Buhrman (a.k.a. Short-meister, Buster, Handsome, Mongo, Mr. Moderation, and Ultimate Consumer) takes some of the most fantastic pictures I have ever seen. His camera is good quality and he has a fairly good eye for catching the essence of a scene. He also takes 10-zillion-gigabytes worth. And I think Gary's quality is right there with him. Looking through their pictures after the trip made me laugh and made me miss our time all over again...

    We all really enjoyed this trip. It was quite strenuous - period. It pleased God to grant us a safe and enjoyable trip that we will remember for a lifetime, and we thank Him for it.

    Rough Animal Inventory: Bats, deer (several on rim), lizards (skinks, ring-necks, chuckwallas?), frogs (galore), buzzards, ravens, lgb's (little grey birds), covey of doves (unusual), big horn sheep horn, kaibab squirrel, turkey hunters (no turkeys), various fish in streams, very quick snake (indiscernible), and one big yeti (a large hairy humanoid creature).

    Pictures of the trip    |     Link to other trip reports    |     Pre-Trip Webpage    |     Back to top




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    (L-R) Larry W., Gary, Bob, Larry L.