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North Bass Trail Trip Report (April 29 - May 5, 2006) by Larry Walker GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK |
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"One's soul is in the wide spaces, the long vistas, the desert flowers, the soaring buzzards and blue sky, the wind [and smell] after rain. And in the rocks, bright with color, hot with sunshine, crag and cliff and desert mountainside. - Roadside Geology of Arizona - Halka Chronic. "But Jesus answered, 'I tell you, if these become silent, the stones will cry out!'" - Bible - New Testament, Luke 19:40. "It is an honor to be a visitor at the Grand Canyon of the Colorado, as it is an honor and a privilege to be alive, however briefly, on this rare, sweet, delicate, one and one only planet we call Earth." - Edward Abbey - Forty Years as a Canyoneer.[Pictures link at bottom of report...] Attendees: Bob Buhrman, Gary Dunn, Larry Lee, Larry Walker General Description: The objectives of this trip were (1) to reset the mind and body - which should be the purpose of all holidays - and (2) to hike an area of Grand Canyon that has had an allure to us for several years now, since seeing it from the Copper Canyon area on the south side of the Colorado.
GPS Waypoints: (General Map - other maps located on pre-trip webpage) Waypoint Latitude Longitude Elev. Comment ---------- Directions to Trailhead --------- 1001 36°24.066 -112°07.764 8711 67 Turn Off 1002 36°24.664 -112°08.984 9163 Turn Left Here 1003 36°23.769 -112°09.033 9201 Radio Tower 1004 36°22.894 -112°08.567 9163 Turn Right Here 1005 36°22.775 -112°09.321 9153 Bear Left Here 1006 36°22.696 -112°09.605 9124 Navigation Aid 1007 36°22.307 -112°10.882 8847 Bear Right Here 1008 36°22.376 -112°11.296 8836 Navigation Aid 1009 36°22.099 -112°13.820 8442 Navigation Aid 1010 36°22.228 -112°14.335 8374 Sharp Left Here 1011 36°22.001 -112°14.133 8313 Left Here 1012 36°21.900 -112°13.930 8317 Navigation Aid 1013 36°21.610 -112°13.989 8412 Navigation Aid 1014 36°21.130 -112°13.941 8316 Park Boundary 1015 36°20.968 -112°13.954 8362 Bear Right. Come Out Place 1016 36°20.744 -112°14.092 8374 Navigation Aid 1017 36°20.473 -112°14.218 8366 Navigation Aid 1018 36°20.154 -112°17.449 7967 Navigation Aid 1019 36°20.000 -112°18.904 7749 Swamp Lake 1020 36°20.136 -112°20.991 7532 Swamp Point Trailhead ---------- Trail Markings --------- 1021 36°20.022 -112°21.296 6741 Teddy's Cabin 1022 36°18.735 -112°21.066 5168 Natural Bridge 1023 36°16.631 -112°19.808 3435 Trail Split 1024 36°16.389 -112°19.546 3276 Approx Ribokas Trail Split 1025 36°15.357 -112°19.693 2755 Meeting Spot 1026 36°15.361 -112°19.572 2759 Up Creek To Abyss 1027 36°15.074 -112°20.394 2579 Bass Camp 1028 36°14.948 -112°20.558 2473 Trail Split For Rapids 1029 36°14.293 -112°20.566 2320 River Trail Junction 1030 36°14.229 -112°20.944 2195 Shinumu Meets River 1031 36°13.871 -112°20.341 2202 Bass Rapids 1032 36°16.368 -112°17.481 3663 Modred Merlin Junction 1033 36°16.683 -112°16.467 4082 Cave? 1034 36°17.407 -112°15.907 4537 Abyss Fork 1035 36°17.342 -112°15.490 4723 Cave? 1036 36°18.415 -112°16.874 6749 Camp? 1037 36°19.339 -112°13.757 8078 Junction Road ---------- Actual Markings on Trip ---------- 0001 35°22.336 -111°34.517 7241 Camp Location In Cinders 0002 36°21.110 -112°13.956 8439 Park Boundary Marked 0003 36°20.130 -112°20.993 7529 Trailhead Marked 0004 36°18.445 -112°21.067 5247 First Night Camp Marked 0005 36°17.573 -112°20.444 3985 Trail Point Near Falls 0006 36°17.177 -112°20.140 3700 Lunch 0007 36°15.432 -112°19.873 3236 Camp At Shinumo 0008 36°15.050 -112°20.376 2488 Bass Camp Marked 0009 36°14.338 -112°20.969 2358 Lunch Stop 0011 36°14.292 -112°20.815 2396 Trail Down Marked 0012 36°14.267 -112°20.707 2268 Cove On Colorado For Break 0013 36°14.615 -112°20.681 2942 Top Of Trail On Plateau 0014 36°14.589 -112°20.757 2979 Scenic Overlook 0015 36°15.363 -112°19.587 2762 White Shinumo Creeks Confluence 0016 36°15.276 -112°19.293 2806 Various 0017 36°15.286 -112°19.288 2845 Various 0018 36°15.113 -112°19.017 2909 Mine 0019 36°15.513 -112°19.413 3043 End Of Tour Up White 0020 36°17.432 -112°20.425 3878 Various 0021 36°17.663 -112°20.567 4012 Various 0022 36°19.295 -112°21.241 5431 Various Trip Details: Friday, 4-28-06: Left Phoenix around 20:00. Arrived in Flagstaff around 22:30. Hit Sunset Crater at milepost 430 on RTE 89, FR# 9122M, 29 miles from Coco's in Flagstaff. Stopped for a night in the cinders north of Sunset Crater [wp 0001]. Got there around 24:00. Beautiful night! Lots of stars and Milky Way to be seen. Little wind. Nice and cool. Saturday, 4-29-06: Rolled out of Sunset cinders about 07:00. Stopped at Cameron for breakfast. Stopped at Navajo Bridge at Bitter Springs / Marble Canyon [pic]. Stopped for fuel near the Lee's (no relation to Larry L.) Ferry Anglers (Guides & Fly Shop). Drove up past the "Scary Larry" sign and on through Jacob Lake up to the closed North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park [pic]. Some simple map checks and a short detour in the National Forest (FR 461 west to FR 282 south to FR 212 east) brought us back to Hwy 67 inside the park where we proceeded to the Swamp Point Trailhead. One of the more challenging parts of this trip was finding and getting to the trailhead and loop back points. Several fallen trees had to be moved out of the roads: bring your chain saw! [pic]. We dropped off Larry Lee's truck down the road [wp 1015] that leads to Lancelot point - toward Kanabownits Spring. Looks like the sign to Kanabownits Spring has been removed. We arrived at Swamp Point around 15:00 and then prepped and proceeded down the North Bass trail. We hiked to roughly the top of the Redwall descent, arriving around 19:30, enjoying a look at Muav (Teddy's) cabin along the way [pic]. Plenty of water in the springs and along some White tributaries. Legs adapting for first day. For me, bean burros for supper with mandarin orange fruit cup - perfecto! Nice stars. Saw the scheduled Iridium flare completely by coincidence (29 Apr, 20:54:20, Mag. -6, Alt. 11°, Azm. 352° (N), Satellite Iridium 22). 21:00ish, lots of z's... Sunday, 4-30-06: I think this is the day that decided the rest of our trip itinerary. The impact of this day on our minds and bodies would determine how ambitious the rest of the week would be. We arose around 06:00 and broke camp around 08:00. One thing we like to do is take our time and enjoy ourselves; we are on vacation after all. We descended the Redwall in fine fashion and then proceeded to boulder hop and navigate our way down the White Creek. Plenty of water was flowing. Around lunch, we encountered some slight rain with plenty of thunder heard in the distance. Once we reached the Tonto Platform / White Creek split [wp 1023], general disdain for boulders and discussions of flash floods caused us to choose the Tonto Platform trail - the "old trail". Many descriptions say this trail is difficult to follow, but it was basically a super highway. Cloud cover and many breaks made this an amiable route to Shinumo. We arrive at Shinumo around 17:30. What an impressive "creek" is the Shinumo! By any other standards in Arizona, this is a "river". Everyone was thinking, "carrying packs across this is going to be interesting." Baths, supper, and ibuprofen for all. Funny, Shinumo seemed so cold and fast; a day later and we're playing in it like it was our backyard pool. Up with the tents cause it looks like rain and the insects are prevalent in this riparian environment. Turkey and stuffing for me - perfect in taste and amount. Crab cakes for Gary - very good! Log sawing for Larry L. All is good. Monday, 5-01-06: Happy May Day! I guess. You know, the month of May is a great month, but it's always been hurried along out of the way for various reasons, mainly school ending. Lots of dayhiking for today. Nice jaunt down to the Colorado. No sense trying to camp down there due to popularity of spot with river rafters. We decide Shinumo-White confluence area is just great. We tried to reach the Colorado via Shinumo. Bass' camp was interesting to check out. Lots of historical trash as it were. Still amazing to us that part of his activities was escorting "tourists" from the South to the North rim on site-seeing trips! We bumped into a river party coming up to see Bass' camp et al. They told us that we couldn't get to the river via Shinumo way because of a waterfall that required significant skill to circumnavigate. What do they know, we have a map! Well, they were right... After Bass' camp (a few hundred yards), the trail splits. A well-worn path heads south uphill to the platform area and beautiful views of the Colorado. We took this route on the way back. We decided to give the rest of Shinumo a look and see about those falls. Well, dead end. Just over the 15-20 ft. waterfalls and around the corner 100 ft. was the Colorado. Much discussion ensued: mostly grumbling at me for not listening to the rafters. Now we had to back bush-track all the way back to the appropriate trail. However, only a short distance back up Shinumo, after much head scratching, map reading, contour looking, I found the old trail that bypasses the falls. Bam, within 20 minutes or so we were down at the beach of the Colorado - and we saw a cool water fall on the way [pic]. Swim, fish, eat, relax, harass river folks (they were, and always seem to be, very nice and friendly - usually amazed to see us there), just enjoy a lazy afternoon at the Colorado at Bass Rapids. We hiked out on the river rafter main trail - what a grunt up to the saddle ridge. Oh, but what a beautiful overlook! Nice vistas. This route was much easier than boulder hopping. This area of the North Bass is 99% rock, 0.9% water, 0.1% vegetation - lots of schist and dark, deep, old, hot, rocks. Interesting, we saw quite a bit of quartz and pyrite and mica (maybe) - lots of metamorphic activity sometime. We got back to camp around 16:30. Red beans and rice - a favorite - for my supper. Kahlua, ibuprofens and sleep... After today and much discussion, we decided not to attempt the loop trail going out at Lancelot's Point. When we do these trips we are careful and very respectful of the difficult situations we could be in with just a twisted ankle. After thinking about how much the trail seems to have changed, the overall physical condition of our group, and the challenge that lay ahead, the difficulty should we be unsuccessful, we all decided that the wise route would be our original plan and hike out the way we came in. Plan to day hike up the Shinumo tomorrow and then 2-day hike our way out and then spend a final night on the North rim in the National Forest. Wussies one and all, but Barry (we bumped into him and his female friend on the trail) reminded me that it is wise to be flexible in your itinerary. Tuesday, 5-02-06: Up the Shinumo as far as we could and/or wanted today. Also ventured up White for a ways to see what we had missed bypassing this portion of the trail. Also trekked up Flint Creek for a ways. Shinumo dead ends into a waterfall that is all but impassable. I found a fairly easy route around, but this was a lazy and relaxing day, so no one else was interested in going further. It was quite a view around the falls. After going as far as desired up Shinumo, we headed up Flint for a ways. It was a slight trickling stream sure to vanish come summer. Found a nice shade tree and had lunch and a nap. Relaxing day. Lots of creek crossings. Lots of waterfalls. We played in a few drop-offs and slides in the creek [pic1, pic2], headed up White Creek for a ways, and then watched Buhrman run back to camp because he forgot his TP (guess he was ashamed to ask). We got back around 16:30. Lots of photos and talk. Supper for me was Beef stew and rice - good combo and portion. Gary had brought along some Crown Royal (for medicinal purposes), and I guess he didn't want to carry it out, so he was offering. Larry L. added it to his apple dumpling/strudel mix for a glazing that was really quite good. So Crown Royal, Kahlua, ibuprofens... looks like all will sleep well tonight. For a bunch of guys that don't drink much, we sure seemed to have a lot of booze. I think Larry L. even had a stash... Kahlua is nice in coffee... Mice were somewhat bothersome to Larry L. and Bob - watch and bag your food/smelly stuff as always. Wednesday, 5-03-06: Begin to head out today: back up Muav Canyon like we came - up and out. We decided to go back over the Tonto Platform instead of up White Creek. We take it pretty easy, enjoying the cool of the day for walking and then lounging under a rock, lizard style, during the heat [pic1, pic2]. It wasn't very hot, but it sure felt good in the shade. We found several nice places to lounge and possibly camp for the night, but with much persuasion, I managed to convince the crew that it would be much nicer to have the Redwall ascent behind us tonight and an easier climb awaiting in the morning. Buhrman protested. I'm beginning to think he's a "protestant" after all. Up the Redwall we went. We arrived and stayed at the same site as our first evening around 17:30. We ascended the Redwall beginning around 15:30 or so. It was perfect; we had shade almost the entire climb. And all were glad we did it today. Chicken and rice for my supper - perfect as usual. Last night in the Canyon proper - always sad and happy. Thursday, 5-04-06: Hike out. Pack feeling real light now - around 40# I bet. Total pack weight in the beginning was around 55# (including food and water). I think with some cleverness, we could easily get everyone's packs to less than 50# or better each. Kahlua, video cameras, multiple stoves, pumps, etc. get real heavy... From the top of the Redwall to the trail head is basically a very steep up. Just keep plodding. Get to see more scenery on the way out because I'm not so worried about breaking a leg falling down. Stopped at Teddy's (Muav) cabin for lunch. Buhrman and Larry L. couldn't wait, they took off for the rim. We left camp around 08:00 and got out at 13:00. Quite a leisurely pace. Cleaned up and then headed over to get the shuttle truck. Drank a few hard lemonades and beers (what a bunch of boozers - driving through the National Forest UI) and headed for Jacob Lake Lodge for some grub. Seems a favorite dish once in from backpacking is a good ole American hamburger. Gary said it's the best meal he'd ever had! I agree... again. Headed back to the Forest to find a good rim campsite - East View will work. Nice night. Somewhat cool. Threat of rain. Actually got a few snow flurries to go with the patches still left in the shade. Lots of talk. We camped right next to a portion of the Arizona Trail (Kaibab route). I managed to hike a bit of it - do when I can. Nice place. More deer. Good z's... Friday, 5-05-06: Happy Cinco de Mayo! We protest because of the protest on 1 May: no Mexican food today. Up and out to Jacob Lake for breakfast. Saw the turkey hunters out. Stopped at Lee's Ferry Anglers for auto fuel. What a tremendous fly fishing supply store! If you forgot it, they have it. Stopped at Marble Canyon / Lee's Ferry Navaho Exxon for showers [pic]. Stop at Cameron for people fuel and gift buying as always. Buhrman's wife can tell he's alright when the Visa online shows his purchases! Our Ultimate Consumer. On to Phoenix, our hot oasis of syphilization. After some stops and some minor traffic, we arrived around 17:30. Overall: What a great get-away! Definitely forgot about the day-to-day grind of everyday life. Some general commentary is in order. The operative word for the week was "hmmmm". Seemed like everytime a situation or something unexpected would occur, there was a collective "hmmmm". Yes, we changed our itinerary. As Bob said, "we're always changing Larry's plans." Good deal! I personally am glad we all like to be together and that we all respect each other. We all like adventure and seeing new and uncommon things, but we're on vacation for crying out loud. Stress we came to avoid. Wise people can change their direction when required or desired. I saw a great contrast between Grand Canyon and Coyote Gulch of last year. Maybe I got spoiled, but the flowers and vegetation of last year's trip seemed to add a lot to the scenery. The Shinumo and surroundings are in some serious metamorphic rock beds. I almost hate to say this, but, aside from the crystals, Schist rock is hot and fairly dull - and I love rocks! Getting up on the plateaus was practically a treat for me. Once we got up canyon a ways, things prettied right up. Maybe it was still too early yet for much fauna. There was definitely much more rain last year that this. Although, once away from the water's edge - zilch on the vegetation. We sorely missed Rex and Marty along on this trip. Both had personal issues arise at the last moment that prevented their attendance this year. Each always adds their special dynamic to the group; although, with any more humor in the group, we may have been "disturbing the peace." I've got to say this (I hate to but...), Bob Buhrman (a.k.a. Short-meister, Buster, Handsome, Mongo, Mr. Moderation, and Ultimate Consumer) takes some of the most fantastic pictures I have ever seen. His camera is good quality and he has a fairly good eye for catching the essence of a scene. He also takes 10-zillion-gigabytes worth. And I think Gary's quality is right there with him. Looking through their pictures after the trip made me laugh and made me miss our time all over again... We all really enjoyed this trip. It was quite strenuous - period. It pleased God to grant us a safe and enjoyable trip that we will remember for a lifetime, and we thank Him for it. Rough Animal Inventory: Bats, deer (several on rim), lizards (skinks, ring-necks, chuckwallas?), frogs (galore), buzzards, ravens, lgb's (little grey birds), covey of doves (unusual), big horn sheep horn, kaibab squirrel, turkey hunters (no turkeys), various fish in streams, very quick snake (indiscernible), and one big yeti (a large hairy humanoid creature). Pictures of the trip | Link to other trip reports | Pre-Trip Webpage | Back to top |
