Thunder River II Trip Report

Thunder River II Trip Report
(May 15 - May 21, 2007) by Marty Pietz and Larry Walker

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

Just and few quotes...

To equip a pedestrian with shelter, bedding, utensils, food, and other necessities, in a pack so light and small that he can carry it without overstrain, is really a fine art. –Horace Kephart, Camping and Woodcraft, 1917

The rule of thumb for the old backpacking was that the weight of your pack should equal the weight of yourself and the kitchen range combined. Just a casual glance at the full pack sitting on the floor could give you a double hernia and fuse four vertebrae. After carrying the pack all day, you had to remember to tie one leg to a tree before you dropped it. Otherwise you would float off into space. The pack eliminated the need for any special kind of ground-gripping shoes, because your feet would sink a foot and a half into hard-packed earth, two inches into solid rock. –Patrick McManus, A Fine and Pleasant Misery, 1978

More backpacking trips are ruined by sore feet than by all other causes combined. Pounded by the ground below and the weight of you and your pack above, your feet receive harsher treatment than any other part of your body. –Chris Townsend, The Backpacker’s Handbook, 1996

Hold up my goings in thy paths, that my footsteps slip not. -Psalm 17:5, Bible.

[Pictures link at bottom of report...]

Attendees: Bob Buhrman, Rita Buhrman, Rex Mast, Larry Lee, Marty Pietz, Gina Rodi, Larry Walker

General Map - other maps located on pre-trip webpage

Trip Details:

General Comments: A moderately strenuous hike through some of the most striking scenery of the Grand Canyon [pic]. We recommended caching water and food on the Esplanade for the last night if you exit by the same route you came in. There is plenty of water in the Thunder River/Tapeats drainage. No trail finding ability is needed for this hike, as the portions that are on hard rock are well marked with cairns, but you should be well conditioned and have previous Grand Canyon hiking experience before attempting this trail. Temperatures on this trip were high during the day, over 100 °F (38 °C) and a very comfortable 65 °F (19 °C) at night. As always, be aware that the weather can change quickly in the canyon. On June 2, 1999 we hiked out of the canyon by this same trail in a freak snowstorm that extended more than 1000 feet (300 m) into the canyon and required us to wait at the North Rim Lodge for the snowplow to open the highway to Jacob Lake. We did change our trip plans on this hike due to weather conditions (heat) and some serious blister issues (see pictures if you have a tough stomach). (More on this later in the report.) Always remember that we are on vacation, not an expedition, so we are not at all bothered to change plans after we are under way if conditions warrant. Our goal is to always be in the denominator of any statistics of tragic events.

Tuesday, May 15: Larry W.and Marty arrive at Bob and Rita’s house, the staging point, and meet up with the rest of the gang. We are on the road by 7:30 PM and seated at the all too familiar Denny’s in Flagstaff by 10:30 PM. After dinner, we drive to the usual spot North of Sunset Crater for a most wonderful view of the stars from a sleeping bag.

Wednesday, May 16: Photons arrive on schedule from the East, we are up and rolling to the ruins at Wukoki by 7:00 AM for their annual inspection. All is well and we charge on to Cameron for a fine breakfast overlooking the Little Colorado River gorge from the trading post’s historic dining room. After breakfast, we drive to the Marble Canyon Bridge near Lee’s Ferry, walk out on the old bridge to look at the giant condors against the backdrop of Marble Canyon with the river passing 400 feet below. The river is clear and green (Colorado? maybe should be Verde?). Gas up and then onward to Jacob Lake Lodge for a sandwich served by the staff of smiling and pretty BYU coeds. South on State Route 67 to Forest Service Road 22 just South of Kaibab Lodge. The 30 plus miles (48km) of dirt road to the parking lot at Monument Point is in pretty good shape this time. We park, tidy up the packs and load Bob’s heavy duty ice chest with drinks to be cold and waiting for our return. Heft-ho and we are on the trail at about 4:00 PM.

The Bill Hall Trail starts out by ascending for about 1/4 mile (400 m) from the parking lot. A small side trip from the trail allows a visit to the Ranger Bill Hall memorial plaque after which the trail is named. He was killed by lightning while on duty. The descent from the rim is marked by a large cairn. There isn’t much of an apparent trail as we start down to the East side of the ridge, just some steep downclimb on limestone by the most obvious route. After a few hundred yards a trail appears that is very easy to follow out to a notch at Bridgers Knoll, then we loop back on the West side of the same ridge, crossing several talus rockslides. We arrive at a downclimb of about 15 feet (5 m) that is made easier by handing down the packs and spotting each other on the way down. Next we descend an area known as 49 switchbacks, finally levelling out on the Esplanade layer shortly after joining the original Thunder River Trail. We cache water for the return trip near here. The swirling hoodoo rocks of the Esplanade are as mysterious as ever and the hiking is level and easy. We weave in and out a few minor drainages and set our first night’s camp as the sun is descending around 7:30 PM. A fine dinner of green pork chili burritos and fruit cups is had. A problem has arisen: Rita’s big toes are blistered under the nail. This very painful malady is known as “Purple Toe” or “Black Toe” and typically affects folks walking downhill and jamming their toes continuously in the front of their shoes. The effect is as severe as hitting the toe with a hammer with pressure buildup under the nail. Draining the pressure is very painful as well, but Rita is in significant pain. Her toes are swabbed with disinfectant and a sterilized needle pierces under the toenail to create an exit path for the liquid buildup. Not much effort is needed to coax the liquid mess out. The toes are packed with Neosporin ointment and bandaged. Rex donates his camp shoes, which have a lot more toe room, for Rita to wear; this provides considerable relief.

Thursday, May 17: We sleep in late; everyone is up, finished with breakfast and hiking by 7:30 AM. We cache food just prior to the descent of the redwall layer. No sense carrying food down and back up for the last night’s dinner. We have been using 1-gallon steel paint cans for our food and water caches for several years as they are virtually impenetrable by squirrels, skunks, raccoons, ringtails, ravens, mice, and ants. The empty can weighs 12oz (350g) and can be had from any paint store or home improvement center for about $3. The redwall descent seems improved from 8 years ago with a bit of cribbing added and some washouts refilled in spots. By 10:00 AM we are at the trail junction in Surprise Valley which splits to either Deer Creek or Thunder River. Concern over Rita’s painful toes causes Bob and Rita to decide to overnight in Surprise Valley instead of today’s campsite of Upper Tapeats. We have decided to alter our plans and not loop via the Colorado River route to Deer Creek in order to re-join Bob and Rita and return a day earlier. They will leave their packs in Surprise Valley and dayhike with the rest of us to Thunder River, then return that evening with water from Thunder River. We all continue to the Thunder River overlook where a couple from Salt Lake City passes by on the way down. He is hiking in flip-flops and seems to have no trouble. Marty snaps a picture of his feet: quite amazing [pic]. Then we complete the climb down to the falls arriving around 11:30 AM. Everyone cools off in the cascading waterfalls and naps in the shade of the massive cottonwood trees. A fine lunch of pita bread stuffed with avocado and salmon. Rex, Larry W., and Marty explore various possibilities to reach the cave that the falls originate from, but no safe route is found. After the sun is over the canyon wall, we drop the last 1 1/2 miles to the Upper Tapeats camp area. This last descent has taken quite a toll on Gina’s knees; so, we are all relieved to be here. There are 3 designated camp spots and all 3 are filled; someone is overstaying their permit. A brief inquiry and the offending (and understanding) party packs up and leaves. We camp next to the creek with a spectacular ballet of bats overhead. A thunderstorm threatens, but only a brief burst of wind and some lightning. We put up tarp and tent as a precaution, but the rain never gets beyond a sprinkle. Dinner is Turkey with dressing with cheesecake for dessert.

Friday, May 18: Rise and shine with oatmeal and grits for breakfast. We return to Thunder River falls. Due to the change in our route, we will use this day as a partial rest day and re-join Bob and Rita tonight in Surprise Valley. We hang around Thunder River Falls mostly napping and return to Surprise Valley as the sun is declining. Spaghetti with summer sausage covered with marinara sauce for dinner. Bob and Rita have day-hiked to the upper Deer Creek area and arrive back at the campsite well after dark. Rex headed out about sunset to see if he could find them on the trail. They spent most of the day relaxing and recuperating, but Rita’s toes have suffered more and everyone agrees we should begin the hike out tomorrow.

Saturday, May 19: We arise, eat and are on the trail by 6:30 AM. The sun is blocked by a ridge for just about the whole way across Surprise Valley and up the redwall. We are on the Esplanade by 10:00 AM, recover our food cache and have a campsite for that night by 11:00. This is turning into a leisurely walk. Naps and exploration fill the day. We even manage to find a couple of pools of water down in a wash for some replenishment. Dinner is Beef Stew and Chili combo with fruit cup.

Sunday, May 20: The climb out is pretty uneventful. Rita’s toes are still pretty sore. Gina’s heals have developed some blisters also which she is toughing out, but her knees are holding up well going uphill. We see a nice gopher snake near the top [pic]. We are back at the cars around 11:30 AM and drive to the GCNP North Rim Lodge for a shower and lunch in the grand dining hall. We leave the park and car camp at large near the Arizona Trail in the Kaibab: East View Point. The aspens are just budding out and in spite of the continuing drought conditions, it is quite lovely. Last June (2006) lightning struck in the National Forest along route 67 between the Kaibab Lodge and Jacob Lake. As the fire developed, the rangers decided to use this opportunity as a “Controlled Burn.” Unfortunately, unpredictable winds whipped the fire out of control and 58,000 acres were severely burned. The charred landscape is sad to see all along the highway. We understand that the ranger in charge was dismissed from his duties. This is similar to the fire that roared across Los Alamos several years back as the result of another “Controlled Burn.” “Controlled Burn” fires are now referred to as “Prescribed Burns.”

Monday, May 21: We drive to Jacob Lake Inn for breakfast and make gas and tourist stops at Marble Canyon and Cameron, finally eating dinner at Stromboli’s in Flagstaff around 3:00 PM. Back safely in Phoenix by 7:30 PM. It pleased God to give us another great, enjoyable, and safe trip, and we thank Him.

Please! Don't let this happen to you! (Warning! Medically graphic.)

And definitely don't let this happen to you! (Warning! May not be suitable for some viewers.)

Pictures of the trip | Link to other trip reports | Pre-Trip Webpage | Back to top

(L-R) Larry L., Bob, Rita, Marty, Rex, Gina, Larry W.